The reconstruction of the epidermal melanin unit ex vivo has been achieved during the last decade, using the combination of previous cell culture techniques. The system reviewed is basically a modification of the Prunieras model, using the air-liquid interface to grow differentiated keratinocytes, with the addition of 5% melanocytes in the seeding suspension, as well as the use of a more adapted culture medium. Repeated UVB irradiation induces a stimulation of melanogenesis macroscopically, and increases melanin concentration and melanosome transfer in reconstructs. These results have been reproduced with skin of various phototypes. This model allows to study the physiology of the epidermal melanin unit as well as pathologic conditions, like vitiligo and nevi. Recent evidence of a complex interaction of keratinocytes and melanocytes in photoprotection was provided by the use of chimeric reconstructs and by comparing autologous reconstructs made with and without low phototype caucasoid melanocytes. Based on these findings, we suggest a novel interpretation of the concept of phototype.